See and Sew B5307

I needed/wanted a new dress to wear to my nephew's wedding this weekend, so I decided on
See & Sew's B5307.

 I made a few modifications to raise the bodice for more modesty and the back as well to ensure bra coverage. So here is what I did:

First I redrew the bodice front by adding a 5/8" seam allowance so I could partially sew up the front so it wouldn't be so low cut, and then just blended back into the original neckline. Then, on the back I raised it about 1 1/2".

When I put the bodice front together I stitched up to the notch and then clipped the seam allowance just above stitching.

I then followed the guide sheet to piece the rest of the bodice together and did the same for the lining.
Except I attached the midriff pieces separately-bodice to bodice and lining to lining. The way they show attaching the midriff lining would not work for the way I like to insert my invisible zipper.

Next, I put the side seams of the skirt together but left the back open. I find it's easier and I end up with better results if I sew up the bottom to the zipper after it's installed. I gathered up the skirt and attached it to the midriff.

Now for the invisible zipper. I like to sew in the zipper and attach the lining in one step, any shortcut that works I will find it. I put the upper zipper stop right at the seam line 5/8" from the top, most of the time when I do this there is no need for a hook and eye at the top. I then flip the lining to the outside and line up with the raw edges of the bodice sandwiching the zipper between the layers.

I then stitched this side of the zipper down to about 1" above the pull. Then to make sure my midriff and bodice seams will line up I zip up the zipper and mark at what points on the zipper these seams need to be to line up with the first side.

I unzipped the zipper and pinned to the other side of the dress matching midriff and bodice seams to the marks on the zipper and again bringing the lining to the outside and stitched it up. Voila, a nicely matched up and finished zipper.

Now all that was left to do was stitch up the skirt back from the bottom to the meet up with the zipper. The stitching will not match up exactly but will still lay nice on the outside. I then stitched the lining in place by pinning and stitching in the ditch on the outside and hemmed by binding the bottom with satin ribbon.

Now what a great party dress that is fairly quick and easy even with the modifications!